Facts:
The scientific name for the Smooth Knobtail Gecko is Nephrurus levis, and are members of the Gekkonidae-- or Gecko family. Smooth Knobtail Geckos are native Central and Western Australia, and there are several sub-species existing throughout Australia. Knobtails are terrestrial geckos, or ground dwelling, from varied areas from dry woodlands to arid scrubland consisting of hard-pack sandy soil strewn with rocks. They live in burrowed shelters they dig in the sand, where they will bury and seal themselves in. All Knobtail Geckos are mainly "nocturnal" which means they hunt for food at night, and generally hide during the day.
Description:
Smooth Knobtails are medium-sized lizards with dark to light brown, or hues of orange and red pigment with aberrant patterns of white to yellow raised spots. The tail is thick and broad with a round ‘knob’ on the tip. The average size of a full-grown adult is up to 3-4” snout to tail tip, with females larger than the males weighing around 25-28 grams, and males at around 20 grams. They have large, cartoon-character heads and eyes, and a ‘bulldog’ appearance of their bodies.
Housing:
As a general rule, allow about 12 x 12 inches of surface area per adult Smooth Knobtail Gecko. These geckos like to hide in low ceiling cave-like dwellings where they will dig in the substrate and completely seal the opening. Smooth Knobtail Geckos thrive best when housed individually, and males should not come in contact with each other or they may fight and become injured. Do NOT house adult Knobtail Geckos with babies or any other reptile species.
Substrates:
Use a ˝” layer of non-silica sand on the warm end, with a graduated slope to about 2-3” on the cool end. The cool end should be kept slightly damp by misting with water a few times a week. Place the dry cave shelter over the warm side, and the Smooth Knobtail geckos will burrow tunnels in the cooler, damp sand where they utilize the condensation of moisture to keep hydrated.
Lighting:
Unlike most other reptiles that bask in the sun to keep warm and to assimilate Vitamin D from natural sunlight, Knobtail Geckos are nocturnal so they do not require special lighting. Keep in mind that additional overhead lighting will raise the temperature and dehydrate the enclosure. Be aware that Smooth Knobtail Geckos' eyes are very sensitive and their eyesight is poor in bright light. Never expose your gecko to direct sunlight.
Heating:
All reptiles are cold-blooded and rely on the temperature of their surrounding environment to keep warm or cool. Use an under tank heater (UTH) on one side only of the Knobtail Gecko's enclosure, thus allowing them to move back and forth within the enclosure to adjust their own body temperature. This is known as thermal regulation, and it is critical for their metabolism, digestion, and immune systems. The ideal temperature for Knobtail Geckos is around 88-90°F on the warm side of their enclosure, and normal room temperature (around 70-74°) on the cool side. Using a UTH is recommended instead of overhead heat sources since in their natural habitat they utilize the heat absorbed from the sun in the soil and rocks of to aid in their digestion.
Shedding:
Reptiles shed their skin on regular basis, and Knobtails should molt about every 2-4 weeks. These geckos usually eat their molted skin, so do not be alarmed if you never see the skin. It is extremely important that ALL the skin comes off, especially from the eyelids and toes, as geckos can lose their digits to infection if the skin does not completely shed. If shedding is a problem for your Knobtail Gecko, it may be necessary to keep the substrate around their cave moist by misting it with water, or placing a damp paper towel inside. Keep in mind that Knobtail Geckos have very sensitive skin, and can develop infections if the substrate is too wet.
Handling:
Knobtail Geckos will only tolerate occasional handling, and are easily stressed. When you must handle your gecko, it is best to slowly offer your hand, kept low with your palm up, before picking them up. Avoid reaching down from over their head to grab them because they may become startled thinking you are a predator coming down to attack them. Always handle your Knobtail Gecko with care, and never grab it by the tail. Like all lizards, when they are attacked or threatened they can "drop" their tails. When a lizard loses its tail, it becomes vulnerable to disease and infection until it grows a new one.
Feeding:
Knobtail Geckos mainly eat live crickets and roach nymphs, and hand-fed mealworms. Be careful not to feed them anything larger than about 3/4 the size of their heads to prevent choking. Smooth Knobtail Geckos can become stressed if too many feeders are introduced at a time. Babies should be fed 2-4 appropriate sized crickets or roaches every day until they reach about 2 inches in length, then larger prey every other day until they become full-grown in about 10 -12 months. Adults can be fed 3-4 larger crickets or roaches 3 times a week. Giving your gecko a variety of foods is recommended.
Supplements:
Food items must be "dusted" with a mixture of ultra-fine calcium powder every 2 or 3 feedings, and reptile vitamins once a week. Obtain commercial reptile calcium power and vitamins such as Sticky-Tongue "Miner-All", RepCal, Zoo-Med, or Fluker products. Put calcium powder in a zip-lock bag or commercial cricket duster and "dust" live food items prior to feeding by shaking them gently in the bag or container until they are coated. Vitamins should be given weekly using the same method. The health of your Knobtail Gecko is dependent on the proper supplementation of calcium and vitamins in their diet; otherwise, serious diseases can result. Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) is caused by calcium deficiency, and can permanently disfigure or ultimately kill your gecko.
Gut Loading:
Live crickets, roaches, and mealworms should be fed nutritious food like pieces of whole grain cereal, oatmeal, squash, pumpkin, sweet potatoes, collard greens, kale, and a slice red potato for moisture. Roaches require high-protein diets.
Quarantine:
Regardless of where you get your Knobtail Gecko it is critical that when you get any new addition to your gecko colony, the new gecko(s) must be quarantined from any of your existing reptiles for at least 30 days, but 90 days is preferred. Countless Knobtail Geckos and other reptiles have suffered and died needlessly as a result of one gecko infected with disease or parasites and transmitting it to other geckos.